Restaurants

Unbecomingly located on a busy one-way system opposite Aldgate tube station, Missouri Grill wears its theming lightly. The 40-capacity room has been straightforwardly done out as a penny-plain urban bistro, the music is not distinctive and the wine list contains fewer than half a dozen US options. Only the food menu gives the American game away, but on the quietish night we visited, the kitchen appeared to be cutting corners. A crab cake starter didn’t taste especially fresh, while the New England clam chowder was too thin, and the cut of ribeye used for our main course wasn’t really up to snuff. Served with a flavourful salad of aubergine, courgettes and peppers, the grilled mahi-mahi was better, as was the light and handsome baked cheesecake. But although we appreciated the efforts of the waiter, who didn’t put a foot wrong despite having been left short-handed by absent colleagues, we can’t help wondering if the management has turned its attention to the newer sister operation around the corner towards the Tower of London.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009