Restaurants

The ship-like copper and granite structure that surveys Putney Bridge from the west makes an architecturally impressive, if unlikely, venue for a branch of this above-average chain. Its two floors (bar downstairs, first-floor restaurant) are spacious, but there were precious few empty tables on our visit. No doubt the high-quality Thai cooking has something to do with that. An extensive menu of appetisers, curries, stir-fries and chef’s specials makes choosing hard, but we were rewarded by our selection of ‘royal Thai-style’ dim sum (a mixture of chicken, prawn and vegetable steamed dumplings) and a superb seafood salad (squid, mussels, scallops and king prawns with glass noodles and a delicious hot-salty-sour dressing). ‘Drunken duck’ was an unfamiliar but successful stir-fry of Thai aubergine, sweet basil, chillies, bamboo shoots, lemongrass and Thai whisky. A prawn green curry was the only disappointment: far too sweet, the taste of palm sugar obscuring any piquancy or tang. We reckon there’s more meat-free choices than any other Thai in town, too. Sweeping river views and efficient, smiling service boost Thai Square’s appeal still further.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009