Restaurants

The canopied roof gives Isarn a sense of space, despite its actual, diminutive size and long, narrow shape, while the butterfly-themed lighting adds style. The menu combines creative selections such as crispy duck and pomelo on betel leaf or soft shell crab with mango dressing with traditional fare such as tom yum koong or massaman curry. The duck and pomelo was crunchy and sweet, with the texture of betel leaf offering a pleasing contrast to the crispy meat. A main course of steamed mussels, though fresh, was bland, despite the kaffir lime, chilli and basil sauce, and a prawn pad thai was too sweet. Overall, while the presentation of dishes was enticing, they tended to lack variety of flavour. The restaurant is co-owned by Tina Juengsoongneum, sister of Alan Yau (Hakkasan, Busaba Eathai), and earned accolades when it opened in 2005. But visits from our reviewers during 2006 and 2007 have yielded very mixed reports, which suggests Isarn is at best unreliable. On our visit, an annoying Kenny G elevator soundtrack was on loop; we can only hope that by now its been retired.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008