Restaurants

Wakaba is housed in a John Pawson-designed building fronted by a frosted curve of glass. Inside, the bright lighting reveals a rather scuffed, less than pristine interior. Careful reading of the extensive menu can be rewarding (particularly the list of daily specials), as there are some unusual – and generally well-executed – dishes. We decided to brave the toriwasa: rare-cooked chicken breast, seared, sliced and served with soy sauce, topped with thinly sliced nori. It had a delicate taste and appealing texture (raw most of the way through, but we suffered no ill effects). Turbot-fringe nigiri, looking like a piece of white frilly knickers laid atop a finger of rice, was firm and chewy. Another winning dish was sliced cuttlefish mixed with cod’s roe, combining an appealing texture with a richly savoury flavour. Kureson goma ae (watercress in sesame sauce) is less common than its spinach-based relation; the savoury, slightly bitter sauce contrasted beautifully with the pepperiness of the watercress – full marks. The only disappointment was spicy prawn maki, which had an unpleasant vinegary flavour. Be adventurous and you can eat very well here, aided by friendly service.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009