Restaurants

Radically whited out but reassuringly old-school, Wakaba has improved its visibility. The formerly enigmatic curved façade of frosted glass now has a strip of clear squares at shoulder height, which allows passers-by to peek in. On view is a square room filled with broad tables and sagging wood-and-weave chairs. Behind a low wall at the rear, sushi chefs craft a greater variety than usual of traditional nigiri and maki. Toro and scallops were exemplary. This is one of the few restaurants in London to serve engawa natto ae – a moreish mix of enjoyably chewy turbot fringe and fermented soy beans. Our cooked dishes didn’t always hit such highs. Hamachi kamayaki (grilled yellowtail head) had plenty of succulent gobbets to tease out with diligent chopstick work, but ika geso kara age (battered squid tentacles) were alarmingly orange and not the most tender specimens. Except for okonomiyaki and kaiseki ryori, the regular menu covers every aspect of Japanese cuisine, while the specials list adds interest without straying from tradition. A minimalist restaurant with a maximalist menu.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008