Aki

First impressions are less than auspicious here. The interior is awash with knick-knacks, faded posters and scuffed furniture. Yet any initial foreboding is laid to rest with the arrival of the menu: a broad and well-considered list, from sushi and sashimi to tempting hotpot dishes designed for four or five people to share. Sea-scented, delectably fresh razor clam sashimi came simply served with shiso leaves. Ebi and mackerel nigiri were marked by well-textured and slightly warm rice with just the right amount of vinegar. The many small dishes are made with drinking in mind (there’s a small but well-formed list of sakés and shochus). We were impressed with our moist, savoury mackerel cooked in sweet miso, and with a bowl of agedashidofu. Next, konnyaku dengaku, chewy squares made from the root of the amorphophallus konjac (devil’s tongue) plant, were flavoured with miso and sesame. Less exotic was marinated tuna kushiage: skewers of tuna coated in panko (breadcrumbs), deep-fried and served with a punchy tonkatsu sauce. This great-value establishment demands repeat visits.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Booking: Booking advisable
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted
Function room: Separate room for parties, seats 30
Takeaway service: Takeaway service

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