Restaurants

From a glance at its abstract wall designs and spot-lit basement tables set around big teppan (flat steel griddles), you might think this place is as modern as the new buildings above it on the Swiss Cottage roundabout. In fact, it’s a dinosaur of restaurant history. Founded in 1964, the Benihana chain popularised ‘Japanese-style’ for Americans, where the teppan is used to cook steak and seafood, which are served with side-orders of beansprouts, fried rice and mushrooms. Our set meals began with a routine iceberg and cherry-tomato salad. California rolls were heavy on the mayo, with under-ripe avocado. Cubed griddled steak was tasty, the chicken tolerable, egg-fried rice greasy but OK, and lemon sorbet palatable – but food plays second fiddle to showmanship at Benihana. In an otherwise deserted restaurant on a weekday lunchtime, our chef did cool tricks with eggs, salt cellars, onion rings, and bowls of rice: though with a heavy heart that was more North Korean than Japanese. Not even a generous tip raised a smile. Perhaps the chain needs to motivate its staff better; a rowdy Thursday-night party on expenses might have better luck.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009