Restaurants

A big, white upmarket canteen aimed both at City folk and the tourist trade (tea and sponge cake is served in the afternoon). Prices are stiff, though service is anything but, and the place is full of chatter. A very British menu changes seasonally, but there are some constants (such as starters of onion tart or smoked salmon). The beast of the day option is always worth ordering; we enjoyed a rich, vast serving of Longhorn beef with fresh horseradish and pulled beef. Lamb with haggis was more than its match. More delicate-tasting, but still covering a lot of plate, was pan-fried Cornish pollack with wild garlic champ. Puddings if you get that far are the likes of lemon posset with shortbread, or sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce. There are also cheeses and savouries, and a top drinks list. Alongside the expected wide-ranging selection of wines, there are cocktails (including an after-dinner option featuring Hovis biscuit) and a fine choice of beers, ales and cider, most of them English. Good though the dinner was, we cherish most the memory of the couple next to us, one on a mobile and one on a BlackBerry throughout most of their meal.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008