Restaurants

A British representative of the D&D restaurant group, there’s no doubt that Paternoster Chop House is a City restaurant (hefty prices and a sizeable wine list, not to mention lots of chaps in suits), but its relaxed atmosphere and bright, light interior have wider appeal – and it is close enough to St Paul’s to be on the tourist trail. The seasonally changing menu is positively slavish in its devotion to British produce: oysters are Colchester rocks, Falmouth Bay natives and West Mersea natives; pork sausage comes from Somerset and beef from Galloway and Dumfries. National recipes are embraced too: cambridge burnt cream with roast rhubarb, or bakewell tart with pouring cream for dessert; hot-water crust veal pie with tomato chutney to start; and faggot, mash and onion gravy as a main. We find it hard to resist ‘beast of the day’, a changing roast with accompaniments – it’s always good, and a big portion. There’s more than a nod to English fare on the drinks list: not only white and sparkling wines, but also lagers, ciders and ales. A mellow time to come here is for Sunday lunch; the set meal is a good deal, and no one has a BlackBerry out.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009