Restaurants

The Scottish theme at Albannach is applied with a light touch. Apart from the young waiters’ kilts (in a subdued tartan), a splendid antler chandelier and a modish stag’s head lampshade, it looks like any other smart, central London bar-restaurant. The dining room is on the first floor, but only has views of the ground-floor bar (where you can also eat) and glimpses of Trafalgar Square. Which is a shame, as the food on our most recent visit wasn’t diverting. The express lunch menu certainly lived up to its name, starters appearing before drinks or bread. An enticing-sounding Shetland smoked salmon pâté (with citrus jelly and toasted spinach loaf) tasted no better than if it had came from a supermarket tub; slightly better was a chilled soup of roasted pepper and plum tomato with crème fraîche. The main courses appeared the second we put down our cutlery. Scottish smoked haddock on spinach with a poached egg was a small, pretty portion. It beat a dull smoked cheddar, Scottish brie and cream cheese tart, served with salad and quince and grape chutney, hands down in the taste stakes. We’ve had better meals here, but on this showing, we can only assume Albannach has decided to concentrate on the bar side of its operation (with whisky the focus, of course).

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008