Restaurants

After whispers of recent wobbles, Pizza Metro seems firmly back on top of its game. Parties of pizza-eaters were queuing out of the door at 9.30pm on a Thursday. The restaurant is packed with Neapolitan gusto, with its quirky murals and determinedly cheery service. Our waiter produced glasses of prosecco while we were delayed just three minutes waiting for a table. Authentic, fully flavoured starters include bruschetta (bursting with fresh tomato), and a griddled vegetable plate dressed liberally in nice peppery olive oil. But the main event is their pizza, made the proper Italian way – simple, with a thin, crisp base, tomato sauce, mozzarella and one or two toppings: salty prosciutto, say, with peppery rocket; or the patented special of their meatballs, aubergine and fresh basil. All arrive as great belt-popping oblong tranches, served on table-width metal trays that rise to eye-level. The pasta dishes on offer are equally appealing. Rigatoni in an almost meaty sauce of aubergine, mozzarella, parmesan and fresh basil was as good as any we’ve tasted. Chirpy and charming, Pizza Metro is reason enough never again to resort to eating at a high-street chain.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009