Restaurants

Mimmo, manager of this branch of the Italian buffalo-meat and mozzarella specialist, cuts an imposing figure as he welcomes customers into his restaurant: a great besuited giant beaming and bantering like a less follicularly challenged Artie Bucco from The Sopranos.Not that Fratelli la Bufala is a patch on Vesuvio, even during its fifth-season decline. The overwhelming brightness and starchy aesthetic emptiness could be forgiven – as could the general air of rude bemusement among staff – if only the food were better. Starters, in fairness, can be decent: salciccia vesuvio comprises slices of smoky buffalo sausage arranged around a baked goat’s cheese and served with a palate-confusing tapenade, sun-dried tomato paste and mayonnaise. But main courses on a recent trip were poor: a £16 sea bream special overcooked and served with bitter, rubbery aubergine slices; a dish of penne with buffalo sausage and broccoli arriving without the aforementioned sausage and replaced only grudgingly. All this and house wines weighing in at almost £14. Charismatic front-men aside, Fratelli can feel like a far-from homely and less-than capable local eaterie.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009