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This slick, reliable steakhouse chain – with five outlets around London – has spent the last few years contentedly making it look easy. Walk into the small, modern dining room, with its rows of deep booths, and you get the impression that knocking out juicy sirloins, ribeyes and fillets, then serving them up with crispy fries, is a simple thing. There’s chargrilled tuna when you don’t feel like meat, as well as roasted chicken and big salads. The large portions and reasonable prices, combined with the sophisticated look of the restaurants, and the convivial first-date-friendly ambience keep the crowds rolling in. The only criticisms are that it’s all a bit suburban and unadventurous – and the easy-listening music would be excruciating if it was turned up loud enough to be properly audible. But the food is straightforward and reliable, the shortish wine list is well chosen and kindly priced (with plenty of bottles for less than £20), and the artichoke and spinach dip starter is perfect for sharing (just don’t smile until you’ve checked your teeth).
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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