Restaurants

This discreet dining room has only 12-or-so tables, with shiny blue velour chairs, delicate chandeliers, and walls a modern blond take on wood panelling. Were it not for the diverse custom, from bright young things to doddery retirees, the Capital would feel like a secret club; what unites diners is an appreciation of Eric Chavot’s carefully crafted cooking. The wine list is predominately French and features three bottles (among them a pleasing rosé) from the hotel’s own Levin winery in the Loire. Starting prices are high, which takes the shine off the value of the three-course set menus at lunch and dinner (replete with amuse-this and petit-that). When money’s no object, opt for the five-course tasting menu with matching wines. Meats are superb, as shown in our main courses of silky pepper-crusted venison, and pork assiette, though the vegetable content of each dish was low. The pork’s partnering pot of creamed cabbage was over-rich in context, but a clear-tasting granny smith sauce brightened plate and palate. We were delighted with an amuse-bouche of lightly curried lentil velouté with tiny beef meatball – not so thrilled that it clashed with our chosen first course of chestnut velouté and foie gras tortellini. A kitchen of this standard should not make such basic menu-planning slips. Deep-fried soft-shell crab gave a well-judged umami-flavour kick to treacle-cured salmon served with a tightly packed summer roll. Desserts, including pear caramel moelleux, were fine, but outshone by the generously proffered petits fours and creamy ganache chocolates. Problems of a slow kitchen were highlighted by one party complaining they would have to leave or would miss a concert nearby. Otherwise, service is efficient and gracious and a meal here is always a treat.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009