Restaurants

In contrast to the art deco embellishments of the Ritz’s Rivoli Bar (the hotel façade was modelled on Paris’s Rue de Rivoli), the restaurant looks like one of the more overblown rooms in the Palace of Versailles: at least four types of marble for the walls and columns, floral carpets, frescoes and a trompe l’oeil sky. Yet for all the French touches, the kitchen takes its sourcing of British produce seriously and is one of the few restaurants certified by the Soil Association. The dining room attracts a diverse crowd treating themselves to a meal at what is (thanks to Irving Berlin) arguably the most famous hotel in the world. Expect cameras to come out, and the musical quartet to burst into ‘Happy Birthday’, adding to the sense of fun. The various menus include a list of ‘Ritz traditions’ (double chicken consommé, dover sole meunière) and dishes from the rotisserie (duck with grelot onions). The wine list starts high at £42, but offers several bottles at that price point; we opted for the house chablis (‘Why not?’ said the sommelier. ‘I’m crazy about it.’) It went well with celeriac panna cotta piled in a martini glass with duck confit and bright red madeira jelly. Roast pigeon with date purée, braised lettuce and tiny beetroot was a clever flavour combination. For dessert, a fresh, tart apple delice easily outclassed the bland chocolate parfait.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009