Restaurants

Veteran restaurateur Brian Stein has built his empire on the principle that if you’re never in vogue, you’ll never go out of fashion. Named, apparently, after the long-forgotten 1930s movie Polo Joe (the theme even extends to copies of the doubtless-scintillating Polo Quarterly Internationalon the bar), PJ’s carries an ambience of classic yet approachable sophistication. The sturdy old fittings are given added appeal by a conversation-friendly acoustic, nicely picked music and highly efficient staff. Food quality, though, is mixed. Thumbs-up for the half-dozen pan-seared scallops, served with a gentle fennel purée and tissue-thin slices of smoked pork belly. A cautious welcome too for a fresh if slightly underpowered tuna tartare. Ribeye steak and chips (seemingly oven-cooked) were nothing special though, and the ‘lobster risotto’ was just risotto with a couple of pieces of lobster on top; worse, the dish contained a staggering amount of olive oil that rendered it almost inedible. The near-full house on a chilly Tuesday was testament to Stein’s skill at atmospherics (the place is also packed for weekend brunches with bloody marys), but the kitchen needs a prod.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009