Shish

This bright, goldfish bowl of a restaurant (the big windows are great for keeping an eye on the Old Street bar queues) is best approached as a quick fix. While the swift efficient service and pick ’n’ mix meze and kebabs work well for a swift refuel (lone diners can take a stool at the bar), the loud background noise, uncomfortable seating and hurried atmosphere make a leisurely meal more troublesome. The menu offers ‘Silk Road’ cuisine, with dishes hailing from Turkey, China, Japan and points in between, but kebabs served with rice, couscous, chips or salad are the mainstays. The place was deserted on our Sunday visit (in dramatic contrast to the usual buzz) and the meat lacked the freshness we’ve experienced on other, busier, occasions. Lamb kofta – served with a bland, oversized portion of couscous – proved lukewarm and unappetising, while a halloumi and vegetable option was better, if slightly undercooked. On a brighter note, the freshly squeezed juices are excellent (try the ludicrously virtuous vegetable blend) and the unusual meze (chinese beans, tzatziki made with courgette) make for great grazing while you await the main event.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Booking: Bookings not accepted for parties of fewer than 8 (restaurant)
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: children's menu; high chairs
Disabled: toilet
Entertainment: DJs 8pm Thur, Fri
Outdoor tables: 6, pavement
Takeaway service: Vegetarian menu. Vegan dishes

See other: