Restaurants

This buzzing izakaya continues to attract a cross-section of Japanese salarymen, young Japanese student types and Japano-phile Londoners. The menu has some classic but challenging dishes, such as fermented raw squid and grilled chicken gizzards, among the long list of raw, fried, grilled, simmered and skewered food. Don’t miss the garlic dishes, for which Donzoko is known; they’re ideal accompaniments to the impressive list of sakés and shochus. Look out too for seasonal dishes such as a wintry hotpot special of hanpen (white fish and yam cake), a spongy triangular cake with a mild flavour and soft texture, served with an enlivening smear of hot mustard. Small dishes include konnyaku dengaku (gelatinous translucent triangles made from the root of the devil’s tongue plant) skewered and brushed with shiro (white) miso and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Fried aubergine with minced chicken was a bit oily and slightly over-fried, but highly savoury. The range of maki (our squid and cod’s roe roll was nicely spicy) and nigiri is super-fresh. There are plenty of dishes that will satisfy, and service is smiling and keen to advise.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009