Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

What used to be an under-performing branch of the Loch Fyne Restaurants chain has now become a 50-50 collaboration with Dan and Paul Rigby of south London's Sea Cow restaurants. The new format is totally Sea Cow, though: low prices, service that couldn't be chirpier, and excellent fish and chips.

A glass display case allows you to inspect the day's catch, from crabcakes to barramundi; you can take these home fresh, or have them grilled or fried. A substantial portion of haddock and chips costs a very reasonable £8 to eat in. The batter was pale but crisp and dry, the accompanying chips hand-cut and firm. Minted mushy peas were runny and more like a pea soup, but tasted good. If you have the appetite you can also have appealing starters such as seared scallops served with a simple salsa, puds like lemon tart and, to drink, there's a short but well-chosen and fair-priced wine selection.

We liked this new Sea Cow a lot. Our only gripe is that the air extraction could be improved; we left the restaurant with the smell of fried fish permeating our clothes.

Time Out London Issue 1854: March 1-8 2006