Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

Twenty minutes on the fast train from Waterloo, Esher nevertheless feels like deepest Surrey. No wonder it is Class-A stockbroker commuter territory. The high street is charming rather than quaint, with posh interior shops and refreshingly few chain outlets. No surprise that Waitrose is the local supermarket.

But is it sophisticated enough for a haute cuisine destination eaterie charging £40 for three courses? Early indications suggest yes, for even on our Monday night visit to George, this new restaurant and bar had several tables busy with comfortably moneyed customers.

Owner Jonathan Dunne already runs Esher's Albert Arms gastropub and hotel, which features luxury bedrooms, and is setting up a new online wine company. At George he has assembled an impressive team including bar staff from Maze. Chef Brett Duarte trained alongside Jamie Oliver at Westminster College and has worked at Mayfair's La Rascasse.

Spiced jus brought a clever Asian flavour to a starter of confit belly pork served with black pudding and apple purée. Roast breast of woodpigeon made an unusual centrepiece for the delicious truffle-scented cauliflower veloute. A lick-the-plate-clean lettuce sauce doused main course sole fricassee with braised baby gems, artichokes and morels was a warming celebration of early spring. Like our other main courses - splendid dishes of perfectly cooked duck, lamb and beef - it was generously portioned.

Only a starter of bland crab and avocado millefeuille and the desserts disappointed. Some ice creams had a woolly feel; the chocolate tart was too firm to cut with a spoon; and the over-gelled panna cotta was not enhanced by its accompanying tequila sorbet.

The wine list offers several decent bottles starting at a reasonable £18, including Emina Ribera del Duero 2003 a red from Spain. Service was efficient and friendly; a miscalculation with the bar bill was sorted out quickly and with grace. We'd return soon, if only we lived a quick train ride from Esher.

Time Out London issue 1866: May 24-31 2006