Restaurants

By Richard Ehrlich

The Westbury hotel - a mere platinum card's throw from the hallowed shopping shrines of Bond Street - has bought itself a revamped restaurant. With a bit of a redesign and a brand-new team, it is a shiny new addition to London's grand-hotel dining scene.

The room looks great. Built on a small scale, it makes old-fashioned luxury (wood panelling, chandeliers etc) intimate rather than intimidating. Service, under Laurent Fiot, formerly of Orrery, aims at the same effect - proper but friendly. When the waiter asked if we had any complaints about one of our dishes - it was a new experiment and the chef really wanted feedback - we could have kissed him.

Our food ranged from good to excellent. Presentation is artful but not annoying, and chef Daniel Hiller knows to treat fine seasonal ingredients with care and respect. Especially successful: leg of black-leg chicken, perfectly roasted and served with fine handmade tagliatelle, asparagus and stuffed morels; and a starter of soused octopus with piquillo peppers and celery hearts, deeply flavourful in every detail.

Not all was perfect: a gazpacho didn't need to be so creamy and didn't need its garnish of diced avocado. But there was nothing to make you cross. The imaginatively chosen wine list offers plenty by the glass and is fair to people who can't spend over £30. Sommelier Candy Dupuis is a master of her trade.

The cost adds up. Our lunch, with one of us ordering from a set menu and one à la carte, took us over the £80 mark for two courses, two bottles of water, a single glass of wine, and a couple of coffees. But remember: this is Mayfair. For its location, Artisan is fair value.

Time Out London Issue 1871: June 28-July 5 2006