Restaurants

By Sejal Sukhadwala

When the original Sagar (pronounced 'saa-grr'; meaning 'ocean') opened in Hammersmith three years ago, we were bowled over by the cooking, and on subsequent visits have never had a disappointing meal there. This new branch (the chain is set to expand) has a similarly austere look: wood-panelled walls, polished wooden floor, and large brass statues of deities that would be collectors' items in India.

On a lunchtime visit, we tried the traditional breakfast dishes. Uppama - semolina scrambled with peas, cashew nuts and spices - is the bacon sarnie of south India. Here, it had warming herbal overtones of fresh ginger, and was very moreish. Kancheepuram idli is an elaborate take on idli (steamed rice cakes) - flecked with peppercorns and curry leaves, this pale turmeric-golden version wasn't quite as soft as it could be, but came with exquisite sambhar (lentil and vegetable broth), and two sparklingly fresh chutneys (red chilli, and fresh coconut with coriander).

Bakala bhat - 'yoghurt rice' with a tempering of mustard seeds, curry leaves, green chillies and asafoetida - is a cross between salad, relish and side dish. Often mixed with diced green mangos or cucumber, it's a cooling dish for hot weather. Here, it was somewhat soupy in consistency and served on a warm plate (the dish should be cold) - but, accompanied by hot mango pickle, it was perky, uplifting and comforting. Mysore coffee (billed as 'south Indian cappuccino') was the ideal accompaniment.

Sagar specialises in Udupi vegetarian cuisine - the pure, natural, additive-free, temple-style cooking from Udupi, a coastal town in Karnataka in south India, from where the head chef (one of the two from the Hammersmith branch) hails. The flavours here are clear, delicate, refined and uncluttered, and the food is light and healthy. Service, overseen by the sharp, on-the-ball Polish manager, Elzbieta Bachanek, is professional. It's a slick joint that gets most things right.

Time Out London Issue 1872: July 5-12 2006