Restaurants

Tucked at the end of a Mayfair mews, the Greenhouse is surrounded by one-way streets and restricted parking zones. Your best bet is to amble here from a few streets away and enjoy the select surroundings en route. A lush garden beckons you into the smart dining room. From the word go, staff exude welcome and expertise. With chef Antonin Bonnet you are also in safe hands, so relax and relish a perfectly prepared and served meal with nothing to challenge you unduly. The food is instantly likeable, and service is unhampered by the uncomfortable frills and flounces that some posh places lay on with a trowel. Culinary frills are included, of course, by way of seductive little appetisers, wonderful bread rolls, the finest olives (steeped in a hint of vanilla, just to make sure youre awake), and too-good petits fours to end. In between youll be treated to a seasonal menu packed with lovely fresh vegetables and fruit, along with more unusual main course ingredients such as eel, sea bream sashimi and grade 00000 Cadoret oysters (of exceptional pedigree). Prices are high, as you might expect. Water and coffee are both a fiver plus service, but the set lunch is several pounds less than last year and is excellent value. Ours included delicately stuffed baby turnips with organic egg mimosa and kalamata olives, and a sublime warm salad of mangetout and pea shoots with braised pork shank. Main courses of seared mackerel and Limousin veal were also faultless, the latter embellished with roasted cashews and subtle spicing. The wine list is notable too, and includes some 40 by-the-glass options. Exclusive, delicious and worth a far greater detour than is necessary. (NB: The Greenhouse was refurbished in January 2008, after this review was published.)

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008