Restaurants

Once a Kingsland Road institution, often credited with introducing Londoners to authentic Vietnamese cooking in the 1990s, Viet Hoa had become a shadow of its former self, with food that rarely lived up to expectations. Hang on, though: our most recent visit may have reinstated our belief in this family-run joint, where the waitresses have a gentle charm and tap water comes in jugs. The meal began a little shakily; banh xeo, while clearly fragrant with plenty of turmeric and coconut milk, had very little stuffing, and beansprouts were replaced entirely by slippery onions and, curiously, rice. Things looked up when our chao tom (sugar-cane prawns) and fried tilapia fish arrived. The tilapia drew looks of astonishment from neighbouring diners; the fat fish was fried whole, smothered with slivers of mango and generous sloshes of nuoc cham. The slightly under-ripe fruit had a pleasant bite, a perfect accompaniment to the tender fish. A plate of stir-fried morning glory, served with lime for squeezing, rounded off the meal perfectly, leaving us happy and sated (if smelling of pungent garlic).

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009