Restaurants

By Ronnie Haydon

Already a mummy magnet, the new Brilliant café and arts centre sits next to the kids' clothing and equipment store of the same name. Crisply turned out, the bright, polished café with airy art rooms at the back, beyond which blossoms a lovely garden, is a ray of sunshine among the dowdy shopfronts of Kensal Rise.

Its feelgood factor extends way beyond fresh paint and flowery pergolas, however, thanks to a thrifty, sustainable theme. Ingredients are wholesome and locally sourced, where possible. Mineral water is by Belu - sold in biodegradable bottles made from corn, with profits going toward clean water projects around the world. Baked goods come from various artisan bakeries nearby - Karma cakes is a favourite source. Junk art projects held in the centre use the packaging from the café.

Brilliant's yumminess almost caused us to throw a tantrum when we turned up for lunch far too late. A tired but cheery chef looked crestfallen when we asked about his lip-smacking tomato and mozzarella quiche, and balsamic chicken with lentils. They'd all sold out, he confessed. And very nice they were too, confided a punter. The accommodating cook rooted around in the fridge and came up with a tasty plateful: waxy Charlotte potatoes in a sweetish, mustardy dressing, grated carrot and a garlicky three bean combo, some delicious mozzarella, vine tomatoes and warm bread. Home-made elderflower cordial completed a virtuous, good-value light lunch. A large cappuccino and a chocolate brownie knocked the halo for six.

It was lovely eating out in the garden, watching a pair of toddlers demolishing flapjacks on the large, sunny deck. Places like Brilliant suffuse parenthood with a rosy glow, which, when you're bringing up babies in the flinty heart of the city, can be no bad thing.

Time Out London issue 1875: July 26-August 2 2006