Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

Mexicans traditionally use every part of the corn plant. Some years ago that may have seemed naive, now it's fashionably frugal and eco-friendly. What's really surprising, however, is that they even have a use for the fungus that grows on ears of corn in damp weather, turning the kernels black - and it's considered a delicacy.

Huitlacoche (or cuitlacoche) is literally translated as ravens' shit, which makes its other name of corn smut seem rather tasteful. It has the inky black colour of squid ink risotto but the flavour of wild mushrooms. Suffice to say you won't see it in the sort of joints selling fajitas and tequila slammers, more Tex than Mex. However it can be found, along with cactus paddles, proper refried beans, and a long list of sipping tequilas, at this casual restaurant and bar in Stoke Newington.

Sprawled across three shopfronts, with one devoted to a bar, Mercado's purple and orange walls are lined with Mexican modernist prints, vintage film posters and shopping bags. The plasticised tablecloths are properly gaudy and floral, and much of the rustic recycled glassware is Fairtrade. House margaritas are salty, sour and strong, flor di jamaica (a non-alcoholic hibiscus drink not unlike Ribena) is headily sweet, while beers include Negra Modelo and Pacifico.

The laid-back mood suits the locale, but staff are not well trained, struggling to answer questions about the drinks and arriving with our main courses before the starter plates had been taken away. But we liked this place. The mole almendo was rich and tasty, the chicken it came with tender and juicy. Huitlacoche was secreted in thick rolled pancakes and smothered with creamy herb sauce. And we liked the look of the pumpkin seed mole that seemed to be heading towards most tables on our Sunday night visit. The weeend breakfast menu looks very tempting, too.

Time Out London Issue 1879: August 23-30 2006