Restaurants

By Sejal Sukhadwala

We wanted to like Cochin. We wanted to like it because the smart, smiling black-clad waiters make you feel at home the moment you walk in. We wanted to like it because of its cheery sunrise-coloured
dining rooms on two levels filled with potted palms and chirpy pictures.

But Cochin left a lot to be desired.

Admittedly, there's talent in the kitchen. Flaky Malabar paratha (layered flatbread) and appam (saucer-shaped rice flour pancakes) were beautifully cooked, as was 'coconut' rice flecked with mustard seeds and curry leaves - although there was no evidence of coconut. We also liked the bright green colour and fresh flavours of cheera kootu (spinach and moong bean curry).

Rasam vada should feature soft, fluffy urid lentil fritters soaked in rasam (fiery thin lentil broth). Here, they were soaked in sambhar (thick vegetable and lentil broth - a very different dish), which was tasty, but the fritters were too tough and needed a deft hand with the knife.

Surprisingly, for a Keralan restaurant, there are only four seafood curries - and one of them is Goan. The kitchen redeemed itself with desserts - a smooth and silky fresh carrot halwa, and exquisite roasted almond ice cream handmade by a local Indian supplier - but by this time it was almost too little too late.

Time Out London Issue 1881: September 6-13 2006