Restaurants

The locations in Joël Robuchon’s restaurant empire sound like 007 stopovers – Macau, Hong Kong, Monaco – but Robuchon is no Bond baddie, he’s a French super-chef. The Japanese-inspired ground-floor L’Atelier is dimly lit, but the open kitchen makes an impressive focal point, and sitting by the counter brings customers into its drama. Small tasting dishes are the best way to explore the work of this fine chef, though a European-style menu format is available both on the ground floor and in the first-floor dining room, La Cuisine (a brighter, more traditional-looking space). Options range from the simple, where the reliance is on fine ingredients such as Iberian ham served with diced tomato on toasted bread, to the more complex: quail artfully stuffed with foie gras, accompanied by its roasted leg and truffled mash. The quality of the produce was displayed in the freshest, lightest squid, partnered with (but not overwhelmed by) chorizo, artichoke and tomato water. The pig’s trotter on parmesan toast is, thankfully, still on the menu and displays the deft touch of a master: rich and light, with just sufficient fat to make you purr. Green Chartreuse soufflé was perfectly risen, light and packed a punch. There’s a touch of attitude in the service, but it is efficient. It will come as no surprise that the pricing is high.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009