Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

This patch of Highgate by Parliament Hill Fields has six cafés and a kiosk within the space of 150 paces. Caffè Deli Paradiso aims to stand out from this crowd by specialising in Sicilian foods.

It's a great idea, but if you were expecting a menu chock-full of tuna bottarga, sardines and caponata, you'll be disappointed. There's a dreary selection of over-familiar pasta dishes including lasagne, bolognese and pesto, and the scant number of more authentic choices (such as polpette and a dish of veal with anchovies, capers and olives) were unavailable on our visit. We settled for a humble beef and vegetable stew that wouldn't sway any fans of the tasty goulash sold at nearby Café Mozart, and fusilli Palermatino, with a crunchy mix of Med veg, no better than you could do at home. To start, Sicily's famous arancini - deep-fried rice balls with fillings such as cheese and spinach - were okay.

The brief wine list is neither exciting nor well annotated, but at least the asking prices are generally low. Staff are very friendly, yet slightly disorganised, for example bringing the main dishes before clearing away the starters. In refurbishing, the owners have made some strategic improvements to the windows and added a door that makes the property feel like a typical Italian al fresco caffè, though it's not nearly as chic as a Carluccio's.

Why-oh-why, then, would you go? Families steadily arriving throughout the evening provide a clue: the authentic ice-cream is wonderful. Zuppa Inglese, Sicilian lemon, white coffee, chocolate with caramelised almonds, stracciatella and an up-to-the-minute chocolate with pepper are just some of the luscious flavours sold at four scoops for £3. Add a cup of coffee, or one of the five varieties of hot chocolate, and la dolce vita will be yours.

Time Out London Issue 1887: October 18-25 2006