Restaurants

There’s a whiff of the speakeasy about Upstairs. You need to ring a bell to be let in, then it’s up the winding stairs to a small, sleek, chilled-out bar area that feels a little like someone’s front room. The dining room is up more stairs; there are just a few small tables, giving the place an unusual level of intimacy. Upstairs has found an appreciative clientele and in 2006 was a runner-up in the Best Local Restaurant category of the Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards. There are just three choices on the fixed-price menu. Seasonality is important, and there’s always a vegetarian starter and main. Cured salmon, firm-textured, sliced thinly and served with neatly trimmed fingers of asparagus, was difficult to fault. A main of sea bream with braised little gem lettuce was cooked à point, served with new potatoes and tiny balls of cucumber, all wrapped in a creamy sauce flavoured with fresh dill – very continental. In contrast was the very English apple crumble: a chunky, buttery version with no ‘restauranty’ frou-frous. The wine list is chosen with a buff’s eye, but is fairly priced. Service is charming and French-accented.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008