Restaurants

There can be few more delightful havens for a long summer’s lunch or supper and a viognier sundowner than this spot, with its outdoor terrace next to the tennis courts in Lincoln’s Inn Fields – though the staff might have told us that the kitchen closes at 8pm, the time we’d booked to arrive. Chef Patrick Williams’ Afro-Caribbean-accented seasonal menus are another draw and, on our latest visit, included a spirited starter of two large crisp parmesan discs sandwiching asparagus, proper bacon and little leaves. Red mullet with a lemony aubergine caviar, butternut squash and shiso leaves was an eclectic collection of ingredients well-combined. Another vibrant main, jerk chicken salad with a mango and chilli dressing, was made with tastier thigh meat (not the usual breast), the cooked pak choi contrasting a little oddly with crunchy leaves. Pear and raspberry crumble with pistachio ice-cream would have been perfect whatever the weather. Outdoor tables are prime, but eating inside the sauna-style pavilion with its sky-blue tables brightens the dullest day. Pity that no wines are offered by the glass. A final unexpected pleasure is being escorted out of the park after dark by the waiter with a key to the gate.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009