Restaurants

Le Comptoir Gascon’s modern rustic style (dainty velour chairs and exposed pipes contrast with open brickwork and pottery dishes) exudes class and confidence – as do most of the customers. In one corner is wedged a counter of precise cakes and pastries, shelves of artisan-made breads (the wholemeal sourdough is wonderfully light), and blackboard promoting the three foie gras terrines made on the premises, all of which adds to the posh café vibe. The French staff – unintimidating, practised, hard working, yet relaxed – bring minuscule black olives marinated with herbs. A special of scallop terrine had a delightful buttery flavour, cut with the acid warmth of piquillo sauce. Toulousian cassoulet featured creamy beans and knockout confit duck with lovely crisp skin. Appropriately chewy onglet came with traditional sauce bordelaise; overall the dish was rather so-what – something that can’t be said of the sensational chips, which are cooked in duck fat. We finished with an omelette gascon – a meringue bomb of ice-cream, armagnac and prune – and an ornate ‘chocolate flower’ torte. Dinky, rather close-set tables mean that the comfort factor is not that high, but this is one place that we always look forward to visiting.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009