Restaurants

The location, on a bleak stretch of Baker Street, is unpromising. Yet the Galvin brothers (Chris and Jeff) have created a phenomenon: an outstanding restaurant, which was packed with enthusiastic customers on our midweek visit, many of them, we suspected, locals from buoyant Marylebone. The L-shaped room looks good too high ceilings at the front with fans slowly rotating, brown leather seats, thick white tablecloths and a window through to the kitchen at the elbow of the L, so you can see the food being plated. The service was slightly frantic we rarely saw the same waiter twice but the cooking was of exceptionally high quality. Highlights included a slab of Scottish beef that was more tender and delicious than we had previously imagined possible (seared then slow-roasted), served with a fried duck egg and crunchy straw potatoes; a confit duck leg that was both crisp and moist; a light and highly flavoured cauliflower soup with slices of scallop; and, in terms of presentation, a simple salad of endive leaves piled up, each one containing pieces of roquefort and walnut. The wine list is interesting too, with an additional, exclusive selection for the deep-pocketed.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008