Restaurants

All credit to the Galvin brothers – not just for setting such high standards for themselves, but also for maintaining and sometimes exceeding them. From the moment we stepped in off this rather impersonal stretch of Baker Street, we were relaxed by the comforting 1930s decor with its nicotine-retro lighting, and by the friendly and efficient staff. As the early-bird diners were leaving after enjoying their fixed-price menus, the place quickly filled with a range of locals in couture, families, friends, colleagues. The cheerful buzz was a sign of reaction to the delightful food, which is consistently better than you might expect at these upper mid-range prices. Fresh ingredients and contrasting textures dominate the menu. A lamb terrine was offset by anchovy sauce; tender slices of braised pheasant breast were in perfect partnership with puy lentils and coarse saucisson; rolled slow-cooked lamb belly was a delicious counterpoint to bright pink cutlets with no sign of caramelisation. The high standards continued with desserts, too: apple tarte tatin was chewy but sharp. On such great form, no wonder this place is so popular. Long may it flourish.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009