Restaurants

It’s a minor miracle that a restaurant of this kind has survived for so many years on this difficult stretch of the South Circular. Yet L’Auberge seems to improve with age, now displaying fresh self-confidence along with staunch resilience. It was half-full on a Saturday night (though it’s just as likely to be full) with diners both young and old. The decor – defined by belle époque prints on pale walls with 1970s trattoria plasterwork – remains comfortable rather than cutting-edge, but it works. The puddings remain the real highlight. A raspberry crème brûlée, with fresh fruit and crisp warm caramelised sugar, confirmed our view that chef-owner Pascal Ardilly makes the most moreish crèmes brûlées in London. The mains (red mullet with buttery rice and ratatouille; rabbit with tarragon and dijon mustard sauce) were high on flavour if, as ever, lower on presentation. The occasional themed menus (Provençale, on our visit) are really good value, although details such as the tinned tuna in our salade niçoise help to explain how prices are kept down.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008