Restaurants

Inhale upon entering this popular South Ken spot and you’ll catch the whiff of fine food, good perfume and money. Around you, elegant people discreetly part with stacks of cash, for a few hours of serenity. Sebastien, the lovely sommelier (Philippe Messey, Papillon’s former wine star, no longer works the floor), will help you wade through the 36-page, primarily French wine list (comprising hundreds of bins), and will ascertain your budget with sensitivity and advise accordingly – though low prices aren’t a feature. Superb pan-fried foie gras, often excessively fussed over, was allowed to shine with a beautifully spiced half of poached pear, sugared fat and rocket; it was well paired with a generous sweet Jurançon, the cheapest dessert wine. A leaner white from the South-west went well with deep-fried pig’s trotters, which were undersalted and tasted of deep-frying. Mains of lamb saddle and filet of steak were very French, and excellent. A young tannic red from the Basque appellation Irouléguy benefited from the restaurant’s arsenal of Riedel stemware. Papillon clearly has the high end of the market well covered; go to this beautiful restaurant to check out of the real world for a while.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008