Restaurants

With its stunning location around the gallery of the lovely Royal Exchange, this ex-Conran operation (now owned by D&D London) doesn’t have to worry about wow factor. It lays on quality linen and super-comfortable chairs and then focuses its energy on what matters: food and service. The former comes from a menu that is French at the intersection with Modern European: not so haute – nor expensive – as to discourage the middle management among its relatively relaxed City clientele. That’s not to say it compromises on technique or quality: now, as in the Conran days, we were impressed by the precise rendition of every element of a dish and seduced by the overall effect. Scallops were enhanced, not overwhelmed, by a delicate, vanilla-infused jerusalem artichoke purée; goat’s cheese tart was crispy and creamy in all the right places; duck magret with foie gras a textural treat. The mild disappointment of an ordinary tuna with tapenade was a blip rescued by a good Fleurie for £26, chosen from a short, well-balanced wine list. This positively delighted our waitress, who complimented us fulsomely on our good taste, service being an enjoyable mix of subtle sycophancy and informed professionalism.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008