Restaurants

Situated on the mezzanine level of the Royal Exchange, Sauterelle has a fantastic vantage point over the buzzing Grand Café below. It is set up for City power lunches and after-work dinners, with comfortable blue club chairs and a simple chic look. The owners describe their style as ‘bourgeois’ French cooking; expect to find classic dishes such as glazed duck in sauce périgord, with modern touches like the accompanying vanilla-flecked parsnip purée. A starter of foie gras ballotine was lovely – rich, dense and melting. However, the trio of apple purées and jellies that went with it was a little too tart and overbearing. A salad of waxy potatoes, cured ham and baby artichokes in a truffle cream also wasn’t the best rendition of this dish we’ve had. Better was the more rustic fare. Rump steak doused with parsley and shallot butter and served with roast vegetables and mushrooms was satisfyingly savoury and meaty – perfect food to set you up for an afternoon back in the office. Staff are relaxed and friendly, and there’s a short but interesting wine list.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009