Restaurants

Theatregoers find much to applaud at this understated little restaurant, where, as they often desire, service is pacy enough to have you wined, dined and out of the door in record time. Your inner Francophile, though, can emerge thinking ‘ quelle dommage!’ The French name (it’s the second acquisition of the team behind Le Café du Jardin), starched white table linen and courteous staff belie the multifaceted menu, where wild mushroom risotto, Scotch beef and Thai tempura bed down alongside French classics. That said, dishes are sparkier since chef Simon Conboy took over. They taste – and look – more than proficient. The no-nonsense fish soup, served with rouille and a giant ‘croûton’ on the side, delivered a paprika punch; the crab cake contained a goodly amount of shredded meat; and roast cod with white bean stew added interest with merguez. Such is the variety of mains, though, that they jump around like a greatest-hits medley. Perhaps Le Deuxième needs the confidence to serenade customers with French cuisine from start to finish.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009