Restaurants

High-concept dining goes into overdrive at this extravagant destination restaurant that thinks it’s an art gallery. In place of a dado rail, art stills are projected high on to the blackest of walls. At eye level, the spirited multinational crowd (many wearing avant-garde black) continues to consume, seemingly au courant with the changing imagery above. White padded sofas and ornate chairs are angled so as to break up what is a large and regular space; several screens decorated with pretty collages contribute to the effect. Pierre Gagnaire's dishes are modestly sized and immodestly priced, with little dairy produce or carbs in evidence, and plentiful variation. Hence shucked Irish rock oysters come with dainty sausage slices on a cocktail stick; cubes of wood-fired beetroot and a morsel of rye break with pungent beaufort cheese. Saddle of lamb has a strongly seasoned herb crust and garlic leaf, but contrasts with, say, the organic chicken where almond cream and gently to the fore. Service is intrusive. Even first-timers can expert to be greeted warmly several times over – by reception, front desk, wine waiter and table staff. The Gallery is one of various eating places: there's also the cheaper Glade, the (much) more expensive Lecture Room and café Parlour.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008