Restaurants

For sheer oriental opulence, a simmeringly sexy vibe and a winning mix of North African and Middle Eastern classics, plus fab fusion dishes, Gloucester Road’s Pasha is hard to beat. Behind a heavily carved wooden door lies a Moroccan wonderland of beaten copper walls, beaded lamps, rose petal-strewn tables and red silk cushions. After being escorted to our table by an unctuous greeter and equipped with slightly stingy but deliciously minty mojitos, we waited an age to order; generally, though, staff are friendly and obliging. Noise levels can be intimidating, yet the lively atmosphere, aided by the arrival of belly dancers, adds to the fun. From the irresistible kemia menu (of meze dishes) we loved the textural treat of very rare tuna with nutty bulgar wheat and crunchy pea-shoots, and seared scallops with sweet potato. A simple chicken, lemon and olive tagine with saffron potatoes was sublime, brought bubbling our table with scrumptious yeasty Moroccan bread to accompany it. Savour sniwat laham meshwi (chargrilled marinated chicken breast, slightly pink lamb and merguez) with zingily fresh tomato and coriander salad. Mint tea brought with a stand of pistachios, turkish delight and pastries made a fitting end to this Moroccan magic.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009