Restaurants

Now more than 80 years old, Veeraswamy has regained its former elegance after a stylish refurbishment. Owners Camellia and Namita Panjabi of Amaya and Chutney Mary fame oversee a classy restaurant where assorted memorabilia is displayed in a modern setting of coloured glass shades, candles, and glossy black granite flooring. On our evening weekday visit, the spacious dining area buzzed with the genteel conversation of smartly attired guests: business types, romantic couples, and the occasional celebrating family. Seafood lovers are in luck; succulent oysters, served on wooden skewers, were flash-seared over charcoal and delivered an explosion of smoky garlicky flavours. Our second starter was a triumph too: a glossy heap of plump on-the-shell mussels, steamed in soupy South Indian broth a perfect balance of sea-fresh flavours infused in a ginger-flecked coconut broth. Keralite chicken stew showcased the very best of Syrian Christian cooking: tender chicken chunks, simmered with carrots and potatoes and scented with pounded peppercorns, curry leaves and creamy coconut milk. Side dishes are sublime; our current favourite is baby aubergines simmered in a velvety pounded peanut and tamarind sauce. But the desserts dont live up to expectations unlike everything else.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008