Restaurants

London’s oldest Indian restaurant (established 1926) has been modernised twice since being taken over in 1997 by the Masala World group. You might not realise this from the decor, which features a chintzy chandelier and pink carpet of uncertain ancestry, both of which jar with the more modish silver upholstery on chairs and banquettes. Still, once you’ve ascended the lift to the airy first-floor dining room, it’s the large windows looking down on Regent Street that provide the panache, along with the faultless table service and the food, which is of the highest order. Dishes from across India fill the exciting, oft-changing menu. Crab and ginger soup was a revelation: wisps of shredded ginger and chunks of white crab meat, on to which was poured a consommé that sang sweetly of both. It was questionable whether the following coconutty pineapple curry (one of several enticing side dishes) was a perfect match for the rich sauce and tender breast of the white chicken curry, but the quality of ingredients and the spicing (ground fresh each day, it is claimed) was beyond reproach. Also excellent: the flaky ajwain lacha bread and the khubuli rice with lentils, fragrant with star anise. Desserts include novel kulfis (rich chocolate, caramelised banana). The wine list is one of Indian London’s best too.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009