Restaurants

The most impressive thing about the Hellenic is its airy modern feel; refreshingly, the interior is uncluttered by the usual tributes to the motherland. Large windows, white walls and a deep-blue starlit ceiling create a calming coastal ambience. In contrast, the food would barely pass muster in Greece. Generous starters of warm pitta and creamy dips were good, but the loukánika were plain and lacklustre. To follow, the fatty soúvla cuts were way too pricey at £19, and left us with a little of that unpleasant aftertaste pork can have. As most mince and rice in Greek restaurants tend to appear in dolmádes, it was exciting to see gemistá (stuffed aubergines) on the menu. We were delighted when two plump aubergines arrived, their filling suffused with the aroma of cinnamon and clove, and tasting just as good. We finished with lovely Greek coffee and a honey-laced baklavá dessert. This place is apparently recommended by the Hellenic Centre, but we reckon it needs to refine its dishes and savvy-up its prices. On Fridays and Saturdays a bouzouki band plays.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008