Restaurants

The Gallic name isnt the only surprise at this neighbourhood restaurant. At such a small, simply decorated establishment we were intrigued to find table settings befitting a banquet (gold-effect chopstick holders, fan-folded napkins) and a menu clearly divided into standard tourist dishes and a section of regional north-eastern specialities. Unfortunately, on our visit the star chef wasnt on duty to do justice to the latter. Other fancy flourishes hinted at ambition in the kitchen. Our plates and bowls were warmed, and dishes arrived on heated stands; simple prawn crackers came with a sweet chilli dip, pickled vegetables and chilli-pickled chinese cabbage. The winning dish was hongshao dupian, soft slices of pigs stomach with bamboo shoots in a rich brown sauce. We also enjoyed the sanxian dumplings: own-made in a classic northern style (where the pastry is thick and comforting), served with chilli sauce and vinegar for dipping. Chinese leaves with muer (wood-ear mushrooms) came in a clear sweet-sour sauce and tasted just right unlike the over-dry cumin lamb, which had been dry-fried with a surplus of overpowering cumin seeds.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008