Restaurants

This sleek establishment may be part of the popular Royal China chain, but the word ‘club’ – added to imply exclusivity (though membership is not required) – signifies more than just swanky surroundings. The hushed, plush dining room, framed by slatted bamboo walls and gurgling tanks of giant lobsters, is a temple of Cantonese fine dining. Attention to quality and detail is apparent from the first sip of fragrant, premium jasmine tea. Here, dim sum (which translates as ‘touch the heart’) touches the soul. Traditional and unusual combinations are executed with sublime grace. Both the scallop and the dover sole cheung fun were works of art: the fresh seafood as plump and soft as the slippery pastry that encased them. Deep-fried taro root dumplings were a feat of culinary engineering; the moist, savoury mushroom and chicken filling contrasted beautifully with a case spun from wispy threads of pastry. Even basic fare such as pan-fried turnip cake was elevated to new heights, with its jiggling, melt-in-the-mouth interior. Other dim sum were equally astounding, including tung choi (water spinach) liberally stir-fried with piquant, fermented bean sauce. Service throughout was swift, professional and knowledgeable.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009