Restaurants

Chaos reigned on our Friday night visit to this branch of Geronimo Inns. The noisy saloon and smart outside areas were busy with an after-work crowd, and all the bitters (including Adnams, Sharp’s Doom Bar and Hogs Back’s toasty-flavoured Tea) were off when we first went up to the faux-Shaker bar. The dining room is tiny, making advance booking essential; with nearly all main courses costing under a tenner, steady custom is assured. The Phoenix and its Geronimo cohorts try to up their gastro credentials with dishes of olive oil and balsamic vinegar served with granary-style bread, but the basic quality of ingredients highlights this as pretension. Still, our cheeseburger was decent, and the meat filling in a steak and ale pie had a satisfyingly deep flavour. A honeyed fig failed to dispel the sense that a plate of cured meats had come straight from a packet, but we liked the rich smoked mackerel pâté, and the quality of add-ons such as mash and chips. Wines by the glass include a Rioja tempranillo, Margaret River shiraz and a cabernet sauvignon rosé. Our waitress said it was her first night so we forgive not being advised the prawn cocktail had run out until after we’d ordered.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008