Restaurants

With its large fold-back windows, fashionably aproned staff and relaxed bonhomie, the Horseshoe could easily be mistaken for a hip café, but its pub credentials are better than most. McLaughlin’s beers – on our visit, floral spring and honeyed summer varieties – are brewed on the premises, while other draught options included Adnams and Rutterkin ale from Lincolnshire. The OJ is freshly squeezed. Plentiful staff are diligent and efficient, telling you where to sit and bringing drinks from the wood bar and its adjacent open kitchen promptly. A popular lunch special featured attractive plates of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, including a glass of rosé or a pint of McLaughlin’s, for £8.50. Fatty salmon fillet, which came with a cheery horseradish potato salad, was let down by too-thorough cooking and wilted, browning salad leaves. Much better was the crunchy-battered pollock and chips (the menu thoughtfully specified that animal fats are used in the fryer), and chewy hunks of bread. Desserts included a chocolate brownie and disappointingly tart summer fruit jelly. The serious consideration given to sourcing of ingredients and drinks here is to be commended, but while the Horseshoe ticks all the boxes for a contemporary English pub, it falls just short of A-plus.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008