Restaurants

Unexpected in these environs, the Pacific aims to bring some Stateside sunshine to dreary Goldhawk Road. The bar is to the right, a comfortable if not exactly charismatic space leading to a lovely little terrace. To the left, a touch larger, is the restaurant. The food is best when the kitchen has confidence in its ingredients, and less impressive when created on something approaching auto-pilot. Our 8oz (227g) ribeye steak was very good, cooked the rare side of medium-rare, but the accompanying skinny chips (a huge bowlful) were limp and lifeless. We were quite taken by a dish of tender and subtly spiced chicken breast, yet the avocado and mango salad beneath it was poor and the side of chive mash was dry and stodgy. For bookends, we enjoyed a pleasing butternut squash and mascarpone soup, yet endured a strawberry cheesecake blighted by the artificiality of its sauce. A mixed experience, then, and we could have done without the cranked-up bar-friendly soundtrack echoing through the eaterie. Still, prices are fair (starters cost around £5-£7, non-steak mains £9-£14), the service is winning and the margaritas are perfectly agreeable.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009