Restaurants

Olleys sets out to provide a breath of ocean air in a city where fish and chips is all too often an insipid takeaway option. Granted, theres something rather Harvester-like about the family-friendly interior wooden beams and artfully rustic brick walls and eating off a plate isnt quite as spiritual an experience as spearing tabloid-wrapped chips with a wooden fork, but otherwise this is as reverent a temple to the national dish of old as youll find in the capital. The menu boasts a number of personified fish experiences: the cod supper, for example, is cheekily referred to as the Lord Archer (tart not included), and features crisp batter, proper thick-cut chips and a hearty portion of mushy peas these rival Mandelsons avocado dip as side order of choice. Those seeking less stereotypical sustenance can also order fried, grilled or steamed fillets of everything from haddock and hake to salmon, swordfish and whole sea bass. Theres also grilled vegetables for the health-conscious, paella for the Spanish-inclined and pickled eggs for nostalgia freaks.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008