Restaurants

Slap on your shades and tighten your pigtails in preparation for a visit to this kitsch restaurant. Decked out in the style of a 1950s ice-cream parlour on Miami Beach, with a chequered floor, neon sign and candy-coloured chairs, it’s a surreal experience to be eating anything other than sundaes here. The retro theme continues through the menu, with prawn cocktail and breaded mushrooms to start, and jam sponge pudding and spotted dick for dessert – all at impressively low prices. The choice of mains is much wider than the name suggests, spanning pies, hamburgers, chicken, bean burgers and wraps, as well a wide selection of fish, available in everything from breadcrumbs to matzo meal. Our battered halibut steak was on the dry side, and we were not pleasantly surprised to discover some lurking fish roe inside, but a generous portion of fantastically crispy, fluffy and chunky chips on the side rescued the dish. Side orders include thick mushy peas and pickled onions. The extensive wine list features half bottles and champagne (£29.90).

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008