Restaurants

Even on a cold and wet Tuesday evening, Racine was full by 8pm – with neighbouring places, almost as good as this one, nearly empty. What makes the difference? For new customers, the drama: the heavy velvet curtains inside the door allow diners a grand entrance before gracious French waiters in black waistcoats lead them to their white-linen-covered tables. For returning diners, it is all this plus the memories of previous good meals in this warm, vibrant 1930s retro atmosphere. The food, though not cutting edge, has character: picked crab, with salmon roe and mayonnaise, was alluring and bitingly fresh on crunchy toasted pain Poilâne; a veal chop was enhanced with roasted globe artichoke and split baby broad beans; a juicy rabbit fricassee was served with its kidneys. The puddings were fun too. Apple sorbet came with a shot of chilled calvados, while warm cherry clafoutis was pleasantly eggy. The best tables are in the window, depending on who is on your left or right. The tables along the sides, for two, can feel rather small.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009