Restaurants

Driving down Lisson Grove, you may not realise that behind this long-established and highly popular takeaway lies an extensive restaurant, with bistro seating and walls covered in cheerful prints. Black-clad waitresses with all the elegance of Dior models bring plates of first-rate fish to the tables. Although the choice of species is not as wide as at some chippies, the menu also takes in main-course salads such as fresh tuna niçoise, and an excellent platter of chargrilled fish (monkfish, halibut, salmon and cod) with chilli and tartare sauces. Perfectly grease-free chips and thick, full-flavoured mushy peas are essential add-ons, and we happily made room for the own-made desserts of apple and almond cake and gooey bread and butter pudding. Draught beers are available, and the pleasing wine list starts at £11.95 with a choice of three house wines; for not much more you can have a bottle of lush South African bubbly. Class.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009