Restaurants

Located in an obscure and soulless residential riverside development, this luxurious three-level restaurant modelled after Bangkoks Vimanmek Palace aims high in order to lure customers from far and wide. Ornate teak carvings, splendid silks, fragrant orchids and sweeping river views promise a sumptuous dining experience, while a heated outdoor terrace offers the rare opportunity to dine alfresco by the water. The food tries hard to live up to the surroundings; dishes appear crafted with pride, and are beautifully presented on elegant earthenware. The quality of the cooking, however, is mixed. A starter of garlic- and pepper-fried soft shell crab with chilli sauce was well executed, but the dish lacked the herbal bouquet that distinguishes authentic Thai cuisine. A bigger disappointment was sab nok nuea (curry of ribeye beef). The meat was chewy, the sauce watery and insipid, more like a broth than a curry. Service, while efficient, lacked the warmth of genuine Thai hospitality. Given the lofty prices and the remote location, there is little temptation to rush back even if the restaurants resident tuk tuk can fetch us at the tube station.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008