Restaurants

It would be easy to be prejudiced against Saran Rom, hidden as it is in a soulless modern complex along the Thames. Sure, the waterside view, which can be enjoyed alfresco, is attractive, but the restaurant is difficult to get to, and the dining room – all dark wood, elaborate chandeliers and high ceilings – seems the product of bizarre imaginings of a Thai gentlemen’s club, and jars with the modern surroundings. Nevertheless, the awkward journey is worth it for some intriguing and well-executed dishes. Classics are confidently and attractively served: fish cakes were pleasantly springy; roast duck in a spicy coconut-milk soup was enlivened by shavings of fresh young coconut and galangal. A lemongrass-infused main dish of minced chicken excellently exhibited the bitter and sour earthiness typical of northern Thailand. A perfectly tender sirloin steak crusted in pepper and sugar and served in a spicy sauce was a fine example of the kitchen’s high-quality ingredients and confident cooking skills. The international wine list includes a Thai white. While not exactly oozing charm, this high-end branch of the Blue Elephant group has much to recommend it.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009