Pied à Terre

Although surrounded by broad, scruffy and busy shopping thoroughfares, Charlotte Street still has the ambience and charm of old Soho, plus the boggling array of restaurants that goes with such territory. Shoehorned in among them is one of London’s best, Pied à Terre. Another refit since our last visit has updated the decor so that the long narrow room is now stylishly monochrome, moody and much more special. Space is tight, with staff zipping between the snugly packed tables in an unavoidably hectic manner. This isn’t a sign of disorder, but the bustle does sometimes register. Given the food, the lack of space is a minor inconvenience. Also, booking is never a problem, despite the handful of tables. Chef Shane Osborn and manager David Collins have been here for years and clearly make good partners; staff hardly change from year to year and are clearly at the top of their game. Listening to them describe the all-French cheeseboard or extensive wine list is an education in itself. Prices are high but worth every penny. The luxurious tasting menu, as balanced as a tightrope walker, included vibrant, silky-smooth chilled pumpkin soup with toasted seeds and ice-cream; a second course of raw tuna wrapped in parma ham and accompanied by picked mooli; a dish of seared and poached foie gras served with its own gloriously intense broth; followed by fabulous john dory and then a tender, flavour-packed nugget of salt marsh lamb. Cheese, leading on to a shockingly good black treacle mousse, and the main dessert of molten, bitter-chocolate tart with stout ice-cream, were all complete heaven. Absolutely unmissable.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Booking: Booking advisable; essential weekends
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted
Dress code: smart casual
Function room: Separate room for parties, seats 12
Takeaway service: Vegetarian menu

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